During the month of October until mid-November, I spent seven weeks traveling all over Luzon and the Visayas in the Philippines to do food research for an upcoming Philippine cookbook that Romy and I will be writing for U.S. publisher, Stewart, Tabori & Chang. We gave it the title “Memories of Philippine Kitchens” because we wanted it to be personal and true to the comfort foods of our childhoods.

It was simply an extraordinary experience. I contacted friends, friends of friends, Cendrillon customers’ families and connections in their hometowns. Everywhere I went, doors were flung wide open by hosts whose embrace cannot be equaled in any other culture.

Along with my photographer Neal Oshima, we traveled to my father’s hometown of Tarlac, Tarlac first and then it was on to other less familiar terrain of Pampanga, Laguna, Bulakan, Ilocos Sur & Norte, Quezon and Bicol. Then we flew down south to Cebu, Bacolod/Silay and Iloilo. We rarely slept more than 4 or 5 hours each night. Getting early to the local markets was a must if one had to see the specialties that local farmers and sellers offered. 80-year old cooks of families with a tradition of good food were trotted out to cook and demonstrate; glamorous society matrons put out their silverware, fine linens and treats; hardworking men and women in humble barrios generously donated time and treasured recipes for the book.

The menus Romy and I have developed for Noche Buena and New Year’s Eve 2003 contain many elements of this learning experience. It will be impossible to duplicate the goodness and skill of many recipes that were shared with us. Many recipes were handed down from grandmother to mother to daughter. The hands that taught us contain memories and wisdom of decades of sweat, frustration, repetition and the eventual exhilaration of success. For Romy and me, this is just the start. We look forward to sharing this bounty with you and to seeing you during the holiday season. Merry Christmas and a happy New Year!

Amy Besa & Romy Dorotan

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