photos by Amy Besa

Slow cooked Piedmontese brisket in a

Chinese smokehouse -- usually 4 -5 hours.

 

Piedmontese brisket has a firmer texture --

delicate yet full of flavor.

 

 

 

Chef Romy's homemade strawberry preserves

 

 

 

Brisket is now the beef cut of the moment

Have you ever thought of brisket as a cut of beef that transcends cultural and national boundaries?  We have always assumed that it was Irish (boiled beef and cabbage) or Jewish.  But the British salted or pickled it and called it "salt beef" to feed the sailors of the Royal Navy.

Here in the United States, we call it corned beef (meaning pickled, nothing to do with corn).  Corned beef is usually available in specialty Jewish delis like Katz or Carnegie Deli in New York City or available in coffee shops as corned beef hash from a tin served with fried egg and toast.

For many Filipinos, corned beef (from a can) is comfort food.

We saute it in garlic, onions and tomatoes and eat it with fried egg and rice.  Sometimes, we add water to make it into a soupy stew replete with cabbage and tomatoes.  As a child in the Philippines, I distinctly remember having to eat it during typhoons and floods when it was impossible to go out to the wet markets to buy fresh food for our meals.  It was always time to open the treasured tin cans -- remnants of the American influence on our food.

Very Special Briskets from US farms

Now we have a chance to savor fresh brisket from special breeds: Piedmontese and American Kobe.

Try our barbecued briskets while our supply lasts.  Romy puts a spice rub on the brisket (coriander, cumin, star anise, black peppercorns and sea salt) and cooks them in very low heat in our Chinese smoke house.

(Scroll down for more details about the breeds that the briskets came from.)

Cabbage-Beet-Peach Slaw

We serve the briskets with a slaw made of grated raw cabbage, beets and sliced peaches seasoned with sea salt and red wine vinegar.  We read that raw cabbage and beets are the healthiest foods to eat -- very nutritious and high in anti-oxidants.  This is a delicious recipe that you all should try especially when you grill those bbqs during the summer.

 

 

Summer is the best time to visit Cendrillon

It has always been ironic that the New York restaurant scene slows down during the summer when most people are away at the beach or traveling to someplace other than home.

But this is actually the BEST time in the world to eat at a restaurant that serves the bounty of local farms in upstate New York or New Jersey. 

Sweet corn is out now and it is perfect with wild watercress in a soup.  The cherries are fading, but the peaches are coming in (both white and yellow). Black raspberries, redcurrants are perfect for vinaigrettes.

Chef Romy's favorite salad is made with Rau Ma (a Vietnamese green called Penny wort that the Vietnamese use to cure arthritis), steamed peanuts, crispy jackfruit chips, stewed peaches, cucumber and heirloom tomatoes served with a homemade plum vinaigrette.

 

The sweetest strawberries around

When we come across a good thing, we love to share it with our friends and customers.  These strawberries from Berried Treasures Farm from Roscoe, NY are some of the best strawberries we have ever found here in NYC.  So we are getting the strawberries regularly and making preserves.

We are selling the 16 oz jars for $14 a jar.  The prices of the strawberries have gone up since we went to the market last week and we are afraid that by the end of the season, these strawberries will be even more expensive.  They are truly worth their weight in gold.  But we are determined to enjoy them while they last.

We shall be making some strawberry yogurt ice cream sundaes that will be the perfect antidote for a very hot summer.

Beef brisket trimmed before brining

 

Romy's homemade brine with Kosher salt,

light brown sugar, star anise (instead of juniper berries), bay leaves, coriander, cloves and black peppercorns.

 

This is Romy's speciai ube (purple yam) pan de sal

dough rising in the hot bakery in our basement.

Think sliders with corned beef for appetizers.

 

A taste of homemade corned beef

A recent trip to London and an amazing discovery of

London sandwiches have inspired us to create at

least one great sandwich: homemade corned beef,

and our own bread, relish and mayo.

After researching different books by British Chefs, we figured out the basics (salt, sugar and some pickling spices) and Romy just added whatever spices he liked.

We just put our first batch into the brine and hope

for great results next week.  So check out our

brunch and see what the results are.

We have put in an order with Heritage Foods USA

for different kinds of brisket either Kobe or the

Piedmontese type.  Naturally, all of these meats

come from good farms that raise their animals in

healthy environments.

 

Kobe brisket and the Piedmontese type.

Notes on the two types of beef from Heritage Foods:

Piedmontese:
Piedmontese Beef originated in the foothills of northwestern Italy and are thought to be a mix of the Auroch and Zebu cattle crossed over 25,000 years ago. We are especially fond of this breed, because Piedmont is also home to the Slow Food movement in Bra, Italy. Today, in the United States, a network of family farmers is raising the cattle on a pure vegetarian feed without the use of antibiotics and without added growth hormones. Though the beef is naturally lean, the flavor is rich and intense.

American Kobe:
American Kobe is one of the world’s most recognized meats. It would be a disservice to exclude American Kobe beef on a site dedicated to breed-specific foods. Our friends at Paradise Locker Meats, our butchers in Missouri, have connected us to American Kobe Beef producers who provide us with select cuts of this delicious meat. American Kobe is a descendent of the Wagyu breed originally brought to the U.S. From Japan in 1976. Wagyu is derived from crossing native Asian cattle with British and European breeds and is now known worldwide for its marbling characteristics, and exceptional tenderness and buttery flavor.

Memories of Philippine Kitchens (Stewart, Tabori & Chang) by Cendrillon owners, Amy Besa and Romy Dorotan is now available at Cendrillon and your favorite bookstores and booksellers online.

Memories of Phillipine Kitchens was named one of the best cookbooks of 2007 by the Sunday Times of London. Click here to read the article.

Go here to read an article on Phillipine Christmas by Bee Wilson.

 

 

UPDATE:
Memories of Philippine Kitchens was awarded the 2007 IACP Jane Grigson Award for Distinguished Scholarship in the Quality of Research and Presentation.
Click here to view

Chef Romy Dorotan met Jane Grigson in 1982 when he was lunch chef at Hubert's in Manhattan. Jane never forgot the lunch he cooked for her and wrote about him in one of her books about a Filipino chef cooking and experimenting with exotic Asian ingredients in New York City. Romy had her sign his copy of her famous and iconic book, The Mushroom Feast.
Click here to view




Reggie shows how the Veggies should mix




Lolo reads his copy of the book

Friday, June 29, 2007 in Philadelphia
at the TBar-Everything Tea
117 South 12th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19107 Contact: Dr. Joan May T. Cordova,
sponsored by Filipino American National Historical Society (FANHS) Trustees

Tour Pictures:
Iskwelahang Pilipino Memories of Philippine Kitchens book launch, Bedford, MA
Click here to view
Click here to read about Amy and Romy in the Boston Globe

Letters From Your Tita

Pictures from San Francisco
Click here to view

Pictures from Los Angeles
Click here to view

Pictures from the Rustans Memories launch in the Philippines.
Click here to view

Memories was launched in Hong Kong Feb 07 by our dear friends Eli & Marie Remolona co-hosted by the local UP Alumni Association.
Click here to view

Click to view more pictures from Hong Kong

Regina O's Photos. Click here to view

Philippine Kitchens From Far and Near featuring Memories of Philippine Kitchens in the Philippine Inquirer; article by Reggie Aspiras. (Click for PDF)



Memories of Philippine Kitchens featured in the New York Times, Nov. 1, 2006. Article by Julia Moskin. (Click for PDF)

Cendrillon and Memories spotlighted twice in the December 2006 issue of Vanity Fair. (Click for PDF)

Check out the adobo article in the October 2005 issue of Saveur magazine
written by Amy Besa.(Click for PDF)

Read New York Times Food Critic Frank Bruni's 2-star review of Cendrillon



Announcements
* Cendrillon is closed Mondays. Hours are from 11:00am to 10:00pm Tuesday to Sunday.
* Get in touch with us for comments & suggestions, at
amy@cendrillon.com.

45 Mercer Street (between Broome and Grand Sts.) NY, NY 10013
phone:212-343-9012 fax: 212-343-9670
email:amy@cendrillon.com