| Reviews |
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Cendrillon
has been acknowledged
by critics as one of the best Pan-Asian restaurants
in New York
City. |
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Shift Drink
November 22, 2006
Interview with Amy Besa & Romy Dorotan
By Melody Lan
Read Article
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The New York Times
August 3, 2005
Cooking Without Concessions
By Frank Bruni
Read Article
(PDF Format)
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The Wall Street Journal, The Weekend Journal
Friday, September 24, 2004
De Gustibus
By Tunku Vandarajan
...I found a restaurant – Philippine, in this case --- whose menu touted an organic varietal of cooking that I’d never eaten before. I say “organic” because I wish to exclude the whole “fusion” idea. You know the sort of thing: Latin-infused Japanese food or Pan-Asian/New American -- deliberate exotica, as it were, dreamed up by metropolitan chefs to kick some life into our jaded palates. Continued... |
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The New York Times Dining Section
(Wed, July 7, 2004) featured Chef Romy's spareribs as one
of the best ribs in town.
The ribs are marinated overnight in a traditional
Asian marinade of soy, lime, honey, rice wine, minced shallots
and ginger. Then he uses a spice rub of cumin, coriander,
5-star anise, cinnamon, paprika and brown sugar on the ribs
before cooking them in a Chinese smokehouse. Continued... |
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What should you
try? We loved the mango tart, Romy’s version of the traditional
tarte tatin- its paper-thin, crunchy, torched crust resting on top
of a distinctly spiced sweet mango base. Buko pie- buko being young,
unripened coconut- came with a fruity, barely sweet rhubarb sauce
when we had it (accompanied by the chef’s own vanilla bean ice
cream). Buko sorbet accompanies a blueberry-and-ube (purple yam) tart.
Kalamansi meringue pie is made from a variety of lime Romy brings
in from the Philippines. For the most authentic experience- particularly
on a hot summer day- dip into the Halo Halo, a kind of ice sundae,
with coconut sport (a variety of very soft coconut flesh), agar-agar,
jackfruit, sweet red beans, cocoa gel, palm seed, and toasted rice
topped with ube ice cream.
-Andrea DiNoto and Paul Stiga "New York's 50 Best Places to
Eat Dessert" Rizzoli 2003 |
Romy and Amy Dorotan's Cendrillon is a
haven for palate-challenging fusion fare with Filipino and Pacific-Rim
accents. The gently stylish space features walls of vintage brick
hung with intriguing artwork. Inlaid wooden tables add a casual charm
and votive candles cast a golden glow throughout. Dorotan's semi-open
kitchen produces consistent, complex and always imaginative cooking.
While respectful of culinary tradition, Romy redefines the genre with
confidence. Each plate is a skillful showcase of forthright food,
flavors and contrasting textures. Daily specials are indeed special.
The sophisticated wine list is an added complement. WWW
$$$ Firsts--Squash soup with crab dumplings, goat curry with
rice pancakes.
Mains--Spareribs with mashed taro and sweet potatoes, salt-roasted
duck with mango and tomatillo chutney.
Finales--Banana crepe with banana flan and cashew ice cream, blueberry
and purple yam tart. |

Cendrillon was featured on Martha Stewart's
television program, Living, on July 20, 1998. |

"My mind was blown by the bibingka that Amy Besa perfected after
a series of 'help please' calls to relatives in the Philippines. As
my daughter and I devoured it, I thought, this is an Egg McMuffin
in the Mind of God ..."
- Peter Kaminsky, New York Magazine, September 1995 |

"Romy Dorotan is one of the unsung
fine chefs of New York, and this is one of the city's unsung fun restaurants." |

"Cendrillon's owner, Philippine-born
Romy Dorotan - who has been cooking in the U.S. for more than twenty
years - is trotting out a staggering array of Philippine specialties,
creating one of the most exciting brunches of any kind in Manhattan."
- David Rosengarten, Gourmet Magazine, April 1998 |

"Cendrillon ... a fashionable SoHo
bistro, where traditional Filipino fare is masterfully tweaked; where,
with a wink and touch of culinary genius, the bibingka becomes a rich
souffle of gouda and feta instead of the traditional water-buffalo
cheese, and where the paella is a steaming cornucopia of shrimp, long
beans and indigo-colored rice ..."
- Somini Sengupta, New York Times, April 1998 |
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